
Hazelnut
Corylus avellana
π‘ Fun Facts
- -Turkey produces about 70% of the world's hazelnuts.
- -Hazelnut trees can be inoculated with truffle spores to produce valuable truffles.
Growing Tips
- -Plant at least two different varieties for cross-pollination (wind-pollinated).
- -Prune suckers to maintain tree form, or allow shrub form for easier picking.
- -Nuts are ripe when they fall naturally from the husks.
Uses
Economic Information
The global hazelnut market is a significant segment of the tree nut industry, driven by strong demand from the confectionery and snack sectors. Global production volumes typically range between 1 to 1.5 million metric tons annually. Turkey stands as the undisputed global leader in hazelnut production, accounting for approximately 70-75% of the world's total supply. Their historical cultivation and vast orchards, particularly along the Black Sea coast, give them a dominant position in the market.
Following Turkey, other significant producing countries include Italy (renowned for its 'Tonda Gentile' varieties), Azerbaijan, the United States (primarily Oregon), Georgia, and Chile. The market value of hazelnuts can fluctuate based on harvest yields, global demand, and currency exchange rates, but it consistently represents a multi-billion dollar industry. The economic importance extends beyond direct sales of nuts, encompassing processing industries (e.g., for Nutella and other spreads), oil extraction, and providing substantial employment in rural agricultural regions worldwide.
Growing Guide
Soil Preparation
Before you even think about putting a hazelnut tree in the ground, my friend, let's talk soil. Hazelnuts, like most long-lived plants, appreciate well-drained soil. They really don't like 'wet feet,' so if your soil is heavy clay and tends to stay waterlogged, you'll want to amend it significantly with organic matter like compost or aged manure to improve drainage. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0) is ideal. It's always a good idea to get a soil test done a few months before planting. This will tell you exactly what nutrients your soil is lacking and what amendments you might need to add.
Planting
Timing is key for planting. Late fall or early spring, when the trees are dormant, is best. If you're using bare-root trees, plant them as soon as they arrive. Dig a hole wide enough to comfortably spread out the roots and deep enough so that the graft union (if present) is a few inches above the soil line, or if it's a seedling, plant to the same depth as it was in the nursery. Backfill with native soil, gently tamping to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly. Remember, hazelnuts are wind-pollinated, and most varieties require cross-pollination to produce a good crop. This means you'll need to plant at least two different compatible varieties within 50 feet of each other for optimal nut set. Space individual trees about 15-20 feet apart to allow for mature growth and good air circulation.
Watering
Once your young hazelnut trees are in the ground, consistent watering is crucial, especially during their first few years. They need about 1 inch of water per week, either from rain or irrigation. If you're in a dry spell, supplement with deep watering. As the trees mature, they become more drought-tolerant, but they'll still benefit from irrigation during extended dry periods, particularly when nuts are developing in late summer. A layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) will help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Fertilizing
Your initial soil test results will guide your fertilization strategy. Generally, young trees benefit from a balanced fertilizer in early spring. Once trees are established and producing, they'll primarily need nitrogen to support leaf and shoot growth, which in turn supports nut production. A good rule of thumb is to apply a balanced fertilizer (like a 10-10-10) in early spring, or use a slow-release organic option. Adjust based on leaf color and growth rate; yellowing leaves might indicate a nitrogen deficiency. Always follow package directions and don't over-fertilize, as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of nuts.
Pruning
Pruning hazelnuts can be done to establish either a central leader (single trunk) or a multi-stemmed bush form. For orchards, a central leader is often preferred for easier mechanical harvesting, while a bush form might be more suitable for home growers. Regardless of the form, annual pruning is essential. In late winter or early spring, remove any dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Also, be diligent about removing suckers that emerge from the base of the tree; these compete for nutrients and can reduce nut production. For older trees, some renewal pruning β removing a few old, less productive branches to encourage new growth β can be beneficial.
Harvesting
Harvesting hazelnuts is one of the most satisfying parts of the process! Nuts typically mature from late August through September, depending on your variety and climate. You'll know they're ready when the husks start to turn yellow and the nuts begin to drop naturally to the ground. For small plantings, you can simply wait for them to fall and then gather them by hand. For larger operations, tarps can be spread under the trees, and the branches gently shaken to release the nuts. Mechanical harvesters are also used in commercial orchards. Once collected, the nuts need to be dried properly to prevent mold and ensure good storage. Spread them in a single layer in a well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight, for a few weeks until the kernels rattle inside their shells. Store them in a cool, dry place.
Varieties
Barcelona
A traditional, large-nutted variety, widely planted in Oregon, known for its good flavor and productivity, though susceptible to Eastern Filbert Blight (EFB).
Lewis
An EFB-resistant variety developed in Oregon, producing medium to large nuts with good flavor, making it a reliable choice for many growers.
Yamhill
A productive, early-ripening variety with good resistance to EFB, yielding medium-sized, round nuts that are easy to crack.
Jefferson
Highly regarded for its strong EFB resistance, large nut size, and excellent kernel quality, making it a popular choice for commercial and home growers alike.
Dorris
A newer EFB-resistant variety, known for its high yields and large, well-filled nuts, often used as a pollinizer for other varieties.
Theta
Primarily grown as a pollinizer for other EFB-resistant varieties like Jefferson, it produces smaller nuts but contributes significantly to overall orchard productivity.
Hall's Giant
An older, robust European variety known for its very large nuts and vigorous growth, though it has limited EFB resistance and is often grown for ornamental value or as a pollinator.
Companion Planting
Pests & Diseases
Common Pests
Hazelnut Weevil (Curculio nucum)
Adult weevils lay eggs in developing nuts; the larvae then feed inside the nut, hollowing it out, leading to premature nut drop or ruined kernels.
Management: Organic: Regular orchard sanitation, collecting and destroying dropped nuts, beneficial nematodes for soil-dwelling larvae, pyrethrin sprays for adults. Conventional: Insecticides targeting adult weevils before egg-laying, often pyrethroids or organophosphates.
Filbertworm (Cydia latiferreana)
Larvae bore into the nuts, consuming the kernel and leaving frass, making the nuts inedible. This is a significant pest in many growing regions.
Management: Organic: Pheromone traps to monitor adult moth populations, timely application of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or spinosad when larvae are young, orchard sanitation. Conventional: Insecticides applied based on trap counts and local pest pressure, often carbamates or pyrethroids.
Aphids (various species)
These small, soft-bodied insects feed on young leaves and shoots, causing curling, distortion, and stunted growth. They also excrete sticky honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
Management: Organic: Strong water sprays to dislodge, introduce beneficial insects (ladybugs, lacewings), use insecticidal soaps or neem oil. Conventional: Systemic or contact insecticides, often neonicotinoids or pyrethroids, applied as needed.
Common Diseases
Eastern Filbert Blight (EFB) (Anisogramma anomala)
Symptoms: Cankers develop on branches, causing swelling and cracking of the bark. In spring, black, football-shaped fungal stromata (fruiting bodies) emerge from these cankers. Branches eventually die back, leading to the death of the entire tree if not managed.
Treatment: Prevention is key: plant resistant varieties (e.g., Jefferson, Yamhill, Lewis). For existing susceptible trees, prune out infected branches at least 12-18 inches below visible cankers during dry weather (late summer/early fall or mid-winter). Destroy pruned material. Fungicides can offer some protection but are less effective than resistant varieties and diligent pruning.
Bacterial Blight (Xanthomonas arboricola pv. corylina)
Symptoms: Causes cankers on twigs and branches, especially on young trees. Leaves may develop dark, angular spots, and buds can be killed. In severe cases, entire shoots or young trees may die.
Treatment: Prune out infected branches during dry periods (late summer) to prevent spread. Avoid overhead irrigation, which can splash bacteria. Copper-based bactericides can be applied in fall and early spring to protect dormant buds and young growth, especially after pruning.
Powdery Mildew (Phyllactinia guttata)
Symptoms: White, powdery patches appear on the surface of leaves, particularly on the underside. Severe infections can lead to leaf distortion, premature defoliation, and reduced vigor.
Treatment: Ensure good air circulation through proper spacing and pruning. Remove fallen leaves in autumn. Organic options include sulfur or neem oil sprays. Conventional fungicides (e.g., myclobutanil) can be used, but typically this disease is not a major threat to mature hazelnut production and is often managed culturally.
Nutrition
Per 100g edible portion
History
The story of the hazelnut, or filbert as it's sometimes called, is as old as human civilization itself. Evidence suggests that humans have been gathering and consuming hazelnuts since the Stone Age. Archaeological digs in Scotland have uncovered large pits filled with thousands of burnt hazelnut shells dating back some 9,000 years, indicating that these nuts were a vital part of the diet for early hunter-gatherers. It's truly humbling to think that the very nuts we enjoy today sustained our ancestors millennia ago!
Hazelnut trees, native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, were naturally widespread across Europe, Asia, and North America. As agriculture developed, these wild nuts began their journey towards domestication. The ancient Greeks and Romans held the hazelnut in high regard, not just for its delicious taste but also for its perceived medicinal properties and as a symbol of wisdom, fertility, and good luck. Pliny the Elder, the Roman naturalist, wrote about the hazelnut, highlighting its value. It was through the vast Roman Empire that hazelnut cultivation began to spread more systematically across Europe.
Over centuries, different cultures developed their own uses and appreciation for the hazelnut. In parts of Asia, especially China, hazelnuts have been cultivated for thousands of years, valued for both food and traditional medicine. The 'filbert' name itself is thought to derive from St. Philbert's Day (August 20th), which often coincides with the ripening of early hazelnut varieties in Europe. Fast forward to the modern era, and the hazelnut has become a global commodity, with massive orchards now found in countries like Turkey, Italy, and the United States, all contributing to its delicious legacy.
Quick Facts
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Climate
- temperate, mediterranean
- Origin
- Europe and Western Asia
- Harvest
- 3-5 years for first harvest, September-October
- Water
- moderate
- Sun
- full-sun
- Soil
- Well-drained, fertile loam, pH 6.0-7.0
- Spacing
- 4-6m apart
- Temperature
- 5-25C (41-77F), needs 800-1200 chill hours
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