
Orchard Planner - Space Trees Right the First Time
Trees are hard to move. Plan spacing, sun, water, and pollination on a visual map before you dig, and see the orchard mature season by season.
Key Features
Fruit and Nut Tree Library
Apples, pears, stone fruit, citrus, and tropical species - place the trees you actually plan to grow, each with its own tile and look.
Spacing on a Real Grid
The tile grid and live area stats keep rows and spacing honest. See exactly how many trees fit your parcel at the spacing you choose.
Sun and Shade Planning
Use the sun position tool to check where shadows fall through the day and year, so tall rows never shade out young trees.
Irrigation Layout
Map water lines, tanks, and pond tiles alongside your rows, and use the water calculator to size the system for your climate and tree count.
Seasonal Growth Slider
Scrub through the year to see blossom in spring, full canopy in summer, and dormancy in winter. Watch the orchard change season by season.
Harvest Tracking
Log yield and revenue per crop as the orchard matures. Build a record of which varieties perform and what each row actually produces.
Tree Spacing and Layout Patterns
Trees are the least forgiving thing you will ever plant. A misplaced bed can be rebuilt in an afternoon; a misplaced apple tree is a problem you live with for decades or a stump you regret. That is why orchard planning rewards time spent on the map before time spent with the shovel.
Layout pattern matters as much as spacing. A square grid is simple and gives even access from every direction. Rectangular layouts tighten in-row spacing while keeping wide alleys for equipment. Staggered or quincunx patterns fit more trees into the same area by offsetting alternate rows. On Fincabout's tile grid you can lay out each pattern in minutes and let the area statistics tell you the real tree count for your parcel.
Rootstock decides the footprint. A dwarf apple might be happy at 2-3 meters between trees, while the same variety on standard rootstock wants 8 meters or more. Plan for the mature canopy, not the sapling in the nursery pot - the seasonal growth view helps you picture what those circles on the map become.
Leave room to work. Ladders, mowers, and harvest bins all need space between rows. An orchard you cannot move through comfortably is an orchard that gets neglected, so design the alleys with the same care as the tree rows.
Irrigation and Pollination Planning
Two invisible systems decide whether an orchard thrives: water and pollination. Both are far easier to plan on a map than to retrofit around established trees.
Water must reach every row. Young trees need consistent irrigation for their first few seasons, and in dry climates mature trees do too. Sketch main lines, laterals, tanks, and pond tiles alongside the tree rows so no corner of the orchard is left dry, and use the water calculator to estimate how much storage and flow the design actually requires.
Pollination is a placement problem. Many fruit varieties need a compatible pollinizer within bee-flying distance, and even self-fertile trees set better fruit with cross-pollination. Placing pollinizer varieties deliberately across the map - rather than clustering one variety per corner - keeps every tree within reach of a partner.
Bring the bees to the edge. Beehive tiles at the orchard margin put pollinators where they are needed at blossom time while keeping hive traffic out of the picking rows. A hive or two on the plan is a small addition that pays back in fruit set every spring.
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