
Kale
Brassica oleracea var. sabellica
💡 Fun Facts
- -Kale was one of the most common green vegetables in Europe until the Middle Ages
- -A single cup of kale contains over 200% of daily vitamin A needs
Growing Tips
- -Harvest lower leaves first, leaving the growing tip
- -Frost improves flavor by converting starches to sugars
- -Massage raw leaves to tenderize for salads
Uses
Economic Information
Globally, the economic importance of kale has seen a significant upsurge, particularly in the last two decades. While traditional production figures might be difficult to isolate from general 'cabbage and other brassicas' categories, the demand for kale as a standalone crop has grown exponentially, especially in Western markets. The United States, Canada, and various European countries have seen substantial increases in both cultivation and consumption, driven by its reputation as a 'superfood' and its versatility in culinary applications.
The market value of kale is robust, supported by strong consumer demand in health-conscious segments. It's a staple in organic and farmers' markets, often fetching premium prices. While large-scale agricultural operations contribute to its availability, kale's economic footprint is also significant for small and medium-sized farms and market gardeners, who can capitalize on its relatively quick growth cycle and continuous harvest potential. Its ability to withstand cooler temperatures also extends growing seasons in many regions, adding to its economic viability for farmers looking to diversify their offerings.
Growing Guide
Soil Preparation
Kale thrives in well-drained, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Before planting, it's wise to amend your soil with plenty of organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure. This not only improves soil structure but also provides a slow-release source of nutrients that kale loves. A soil test can give you precise recommendations, but generally, working in a good 2-3 inches of compost will set your kale up for success. Ensure the bed is free of weeds and has good tilth.
Planting
Kale can be direct-sown or started from transplants. For spring planting, sow seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost date, or direct sow once the soil can be worked. For a fall crop, which often yields sweeter leaves after a light frost, sow seeds in mid to late summer. Plant seeds about half an inch deep and 1 inch apart. Once seedlings emerge and are a few inches tall, thin them to 8-12 inches apart for smaller leaves or 18-24 inches apart for larger, mature plants. If using transplants, plant them at the same depth they were in their nursery pots, maintaining the same spacing.
Watering
Consistent moisture is key for tender, flavorful kale leaves. Aim for about 1-1.5 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Kale can become bitter and tough if stressed by drought. Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry spells. Mulching around your plants with straw or wood chips can help retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizing
Kale is a heavy feeder, particularly nitrogen, which encourages lush leaf growth. A balanced organic fertilizer can be incorporated into the soil at planting time. Once plants are established and growing well, typically 3-4 weeks after planting or transplanting, a side-dressing of compost or a nitrogen-rich liquid feed (like fish emulsion or compost tea) every 3-4 weeks will keep them happy and productive. Watch your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency, such as yellowing leaves, which might indicate a need for more nitrogen.
Pruning
While not strictly 'pruning' in the traditional sense, managing your kale plants involves removing older, yellowing, or damaged leaves from the bottom of the plant. This redirects the plant's energy into producing new, healthy growth. You can also pinch off flower stalks if your kale starts to bolt (go to seed) prematurely. This can extend the harvest period, though bolting often signifies the end of the plant's prime production.
Harvesting
You can start harvesting kale leaves when they are about the size of your hand, typically 50-75 days from seeding, or sooner for baby kale. The best method is to harvest the outer, lower leaves first, leaving the central growing point intact. This 'cut-and-come-again' method allows the plant to continue producing for weeks, sometimes even months, until a hard freeze. For the sweetest flavor, try harvesting after a light frost. A gentle tug or a sharp knife can be used to detach the leaves. Avoid stripping too many leaves at once, as the plant needs sufficient foliage for photosynthesis.
Varieties
Lacinato (Dinosaur Kale/Tuscan Kale)
Known for its dark blue-green, heavily textured, elongated leaves, this variety offers a slightly sweeter and nuttier flavor than other kales.
Red Russian
Featuring flat, frilly, oak-leaf shaped leaves with purple veins and stems, Red Russian kale is incredibly tender and sweet, especially after a frost.
Vates Blue Curled
A compact, cold-hardy variety with finely curled, blue-green leaves, perfect for small gardens and known for its excellent resistance to yellowing.
Premier
This vigorous and cold-tolerant variety produces abundant, medium-green, slightly ruffled leaves, making it an excellent choice for overwintering.
Scarlet
Striking with its deep purple-red, crinkled leaves, Scarlet kale offers a milder flavor and adds beautiful color to both the garden and the plate.
Siberian
Exceptionally cold-hardy, Siberian kale has broad, slightly ruffled leaves and a mild, sweet flavor, making it ideal for late-season harvests.
Companion Planting
❌ Bad Companions
Pests & Diseases
Common Pests
Aphids
Tiny, pear-shaped insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves, sucking plant sap and causing stunted, distorted growth.
Management: Organically: Spray with a strong stream of water, use insecticidal soap, or introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs. Conventionally: Apply systemic insecticides or targeted contact sprays.
Cabbage Worms (Imported Cabbageworm, Cabbage Looper)
Green caterpillars that chew large, ragged holes in leaves, often leaving behind dark green frass (excrement).
Management: Organically: Hand-pick worms, use row covers to prevent egg-laying, or apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) spray. Conventionally: Use synthetic pyrethroids or carbaryl-based insecticides.
Flea Beetles
Small, dark, jumping beetles that chew numerous tiny 'shot holes' in leaves, particularly on young seedlings, stunting growth.
Management: Organically: Use floating row covers, dust with diatomaceous earth, or spray with neem oil. Conventionally: Apply broad-spectrum insecticides containing active ingredients like permethrin.
Common Diseases
Clubroot
Symptoms: Stunted growth, wilting leaves during the day, and swollen, distorted roots that look like clubs.
Treatment: Prevention is key: ensure good drainage, maintain soil pH above 7.0 (add lime), practice crop rotation (3-5 years), and plant resistant varieties. Remove and destroy infected plants; there is no cure for infected plants.
Downy Mildew
Symptoms: Yellowish patches on the upper surface of leaves, with fuzzy, purplish-gray mold on the undersides. Leaves may eventually turn brown and die.
Treatment: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove infected leaves. Organic options include copper-based fungicides or neem oil. Conventional treatments involve specific systemic fungicides.
Black Rot
Symptoms: V-shaped yellow lesions starting at the leaf margins, eventually turning brown and black. The veins within the lesion also turn black, and the infection can spread systemically, causing stem discoloration.
Treatment: Use certified disease-free seeds, practice strict crop rotation (at least 3 years), sanitize tools, and avoid overhead irrigation. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. No effective chemical treatment once established in the plant.
Nutrition
Per 100g edible portion
History
Kale, a member of the diverse Brassica oleracea species, shares its ancestry with broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage. Its lineage traces back to wild cabbage, a plant native to coastal western and southern Europe. For thousands of years, long before the Roman Empire, various forms of kale were cultivated across Europe, valued for their hardiness and nutritional content, especially in colder climates where other greens struggled.
Ancient Greeks and Romans were known to cultivate leafy Brassicas, which likely included forms of kale. By the Middle Ages, kale was one of the most common green vegetables in Europe, particularly in Scotland and Germany, where it formed a staple part of the diet. In Scotland, the term 'kail' was often synonymous with food itself, and 'kail-yard' referred to a kitchen garden. It was a crucial food source, providing essential vitamins during long, harsh winters when other fresh produce was scarce.
Kale made its way to the Americas with European settlers in the 17th century. However, its popularity waned somewhat with the introduction of other, perhaps more palatable, vegetables like potatoes and various types of lettuce. For many years, kale was relegated to garnishes or livestock feed in some regions, a testament to its robust nature and ability to thrive in challenging conditions.
The late 20th and early 21st centuries saw a remarkable resurgence in kale's popularity. Driven by a growing interest in health foods and nutrient-dense produce, kale transformed from a humble, often overlooked vegetable into a celebrated 'superfood.' Its versatility, vibrant colors, and impressive nutritional profile have cemented its place in modern cuisine and agriculture, making it a beloved crop for farmers and health-conscious eaters alike.
Quick Facts
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Climate
- temperate, subtropical
- Origin
- Eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor
- Harvest
- 55-75 days from seed
- Water
- moderate
- Sun
- full-sun
- Soil
- Rich, well-drained soil, pH 6.0-7.5
- Spacing
- 45-60cm apart, rows 60cm
- Temperature
- 7-24C (45-75F)
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