
Plum
Prunus domestica
π‘ Fun Facts
- -Dried plums are called prunes and were among the earliest cultivated fruits
- -There are over 2,000 varieties of plums
Growing Tips
- -Most varieties require a pollination partner
- -Thin fruit to 8-10cm apart
- -European plums need 700-1000 chill hours
Uses
Economic Information
Plums represent a significant segment of the global fruit market, valued for their versatility and widespread appeal. Global production volumes are substantial, with China leading the charge as the largest producer by a considerable margin, followed by countries like Romania, Serbia, and the United States. These top producing nations contribute billions of dollars to the agricultural economy annually, reflecting the fruit's economic importance.
The market value of plums is driven by demand for fresh consumption, but also by their extensive use in processed forms. Prunes (dried plums) constitute a major industry, particularly in California, U.S., which is a leading producer. Beyond drying, plums are vital for jams, jellies, pies, brandies, and other culinary products, providing stable income for farmers and supporting various food processing industries worldwide. The economic health of plum orchards is crucial for many rural communities, highlighting the fruit's role as a staple crop.
Growing Guide
Soil Preparation
Plums are relatively forgiving, but they truly thrive in well-drained, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil is heavy clay, you'll want to amend it generously with organic matter like compost, aged manure, or peat moss to improve drainage and aeration. For sandy soils, organic matter will help retain moisture and nutrients. A soil test is always a good idea to understand your starting point and adjust accordingly. Remember, healthy soil makes for happy trees!
Planting
The best time to plant plum trees is in late winter or early spring while they are still dormant. Choose a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. If you're planting a bare-root tree, create a small mound of soil in the center of the hole, spread the roots over it, and ensure the graft union (the swollen part on the trunk) remains 2-3 inches above the soil line. For container-grown trees, simply place the root ball so the top is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill with your prepared soil, gently firming it to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Spacing depends on the variety and rootstock, but generally, allow 15-20 feet between standard trees and 8-12 feet for dwarf varieties.
Watering
Consistent moisture is key, especially for young trees and during dry spells. Newly planted trees need regular watering β about 1-2 gallons per week, depending on rainfall and soil type β for their first year to establish a strong root system. Mature trees benefit from deep watering, particularly during fruit development. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rain or irrigation. A good way to check is to feel the soil about 4-6 inches deep; if it's dry, it's time to water. Mulching around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) can help conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Fertilizing
Plum trees generally benefit from a balanced fertilizer application in early spring, just as new growth begins. For young trees, a light application of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer or a good layer of compost is usually sufficient. As trees mature and begin bearing fruit, they might need a bit more, especially if you notice slow growth or pale leaves. Organic growers can rely on compost, well-rotted manure, or alfalfa meal. Always follow package directions for commercial fertilizers, and remember that too much nitrogen can lead to lush foliage but poor fruit production.
Pruning
Pruning is essential for shaping the tree, promoting fruit production, and maintaining tree health. The primary pruning is done in late winter or early spring while the tree is dormant. For European plums, a modified central leader system often works well, while Japanese plums tend to do better with an open vase shape. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or crossing branches, and thin out crowded areas to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration. You'll also want to shorten branches to encourage new fruiting wood. Light summer pruning can be done to control size or remove suckers, but avoid heavy summer pruning as it can stress the tree.
Harvesting
Knowing when to harvest plums is a bit of an art. Most plums are ready when they achieve their full color, feel slightly soft to the touch, and can be easily twisted off the branch. Taste is the ultimate test β a ripe plum will be sweet and juicy. Don't rush it; plums don't ripen much once picked. Harvest over several days or weeks as individual fruits ripen. Gently pick them to avoid bruising. A well-cared-for plum tree can provide a bountiful harvest, often starting 3-6 years after planting, and continue to produce for many decades.
Varieties
Stanley
A popular European prune plum, known for its deep purple skin, greenish-yellow flesh, and excellent flavor for fresh eating or drying.
Santa Rosa
A classic Japanese plum, famous for its large, reddish-purple fruit with amber flesh, sweet-tart taste, and aromatic qualities.
Green Gage
An old European heirloom plum, prized for its small to medium green-yellow fruit with incredibly rich, honey-sweet flavor.
Damson
A small, tart European plum with dark blue skin and yellow-green flesh, traditionally used for jams, jellies, and preserves.
Shiro
A very early-ripening Japanese plum with bright yellow skin and flesh, offering a juicy, mild, and sweet flavor.
Mirabelle
Small, golden-yellow European plums primarily grown in France, renowned for their intense sweetness and use in tarts and brandies.
Elephant Heart
A large, heart-shaped Japanese plum with mottled reddish-purple skin and dark red, juicy, sweet flesh, excellent for fresh eating.
Bluefree
A vigorous European plum variety that produces large, dark blue fruit with firm, sweet yellow flesh, good for fresh eating and canning.
Companion Planting
β Good Companions
β Bad Companions
Pests & Diseases
Common Pests
Plum Curculio
Small, dark beetles that lay eggs in developing fruit, causing crescent-shaped scars and wormy plums that often drop prematurely.
Management: Organic: Apply kaolin clay (Surround WP) as a repellent, use beneficial nematodes in the soil, and practice good orchard sanitation by picking up dropped fruit. Conventional: Apply insecticides containing active ingredients like phosmet or carbaryl at petal fall and repeat as needed.
Aphids
Tiny, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves, sucking sap, causing distorted leaves, and secreting sticky honeydew.
Management: Organic: Blast them off with a strong stream of water, introduce natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings, or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Conventional: Use systemic insecticides or contact sprays like malathion or pyrethrin.
Codling Moth
The larvae of this moth bore into the fruit, creating tunnels and making the plums unmarketable.
Management: Organic: Use pheromone traps to monitor and disrupt mating, apply horticultural oil in late winter, or spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) when larvae are young. Conventional: Apply insecticides such as spinosad or carbaryl according to label instructions during critical egg-laying periods.
Scale Insects
Small, immobile insects that attach to branches and twigs, sucking sap and weakening the tree, often appearing as small bumps or crusty growths.
Management: Organic: Apply dormant oil spray in late winter to smother overwintering scales. Encourage natural predators. For light infestations, scrub them off with a brush. Conventional: Use horticultural oils or insecticides like malathion during the crawler stage (when young scales emerge).
Common Diseases
Brown Rot
Symptoms: Soft, brown spots on ripening fruit that quickly expand and become covered with fuzzy gray spores; blossoms can also turn brown and die.
Treatment: Prune out infected branches and mummified fruit to reduce inoculum. Improve air circulation through proper pruning. Apply fungicides containing captan, propiconazole, or myclobutanil at bloom and during fruit development. Organic options include copper-based fungicides or sulfur.
Black Knot
Symptoms: Hard, black, warty growths (galls) on twigs and branches, which can girdle and kill affected limbs.
Treatment: Prune out infected branches in late winter when the galls are most visible, cutting at least 4-8 inches below the visible knot. Destroy pruned material immediately. Keep trees well-pruned for good air circulation. Fungicides are generally not effective for established knots; prevention through sanitation is key.
Plum Pox Virus (Sharka)
Symptoms: Yellow rings or spots on leaves, distorted and bumpy fruit with discolored flesh, and premature fruit drop. This is a very serious disease.
Treatment: There is no cure for Sharka. Infected trees must be removed and destroyed to prevent spread. Plant only certified virus-free stock and choose resistant varieties where available. This disease is reportable in many regions due to its destructive potential.
Bacterial Canker
Symptoms: Sunken lesions (cankers) on branches and trunks that may exude gummy sap, wilting leaves, and dieback of branches, especially in cool, wet weather.
Treatment: Prune out infected branches during dry weather, making cuts well into healthy wood. Avoid pruning during wet periods. Protect trees from wounds. Copper-based sprays applied in fall and early spring can help prevent new infections. Ensure good air circulation and avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization.
Nutrition
Per 100g edible portion
History
Ah, the plum! A fruit with a history as rich and sweet as its flesh. Most cultivated plums we enjoy today, known as European plums (Prunus domestica), are believed to have originated somewhere in Western Asia or the Caucasus region, likely a natural hybrid of the cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera) and the sloe (Prunus spinosa). This happy accident created a fruit that was larger, sweeter, and more versatile than its wild ancestors, setting the stage for its global dominance.
Evidence suggests plums were cultivated as early as the Neolithic period, with archaeological finds in ancient European sites. The Romans, with their keen agricultural sense, were certainly big fans, spreading plum cultivation throughout their empire. Pliny the Elder, the Roman naturalist, even documented numerous plum varieties in his writings. As trade routes like the Silk Road flourished, plums traveled far and wide, reaching new cultures and climates, adapting and diversifying along the way.
Plums have held significant cultural importance, symbolizing longevity and prosperity in some Asian cultures, and often featuring in folklore and art. During the Crusades, soldiers returning from the Middle East are credited with bringing new plum varieties back to Europe, further enriching the continent's orchards. Later, European colonists introduced plums to the Americas, where they quickly found a new home and gave rise to new American varieties, often crossing with native plum species.
One delightful anecdote tells of the French King Francis I, who, upon tasting the sweet, small Mirabelle plum, declared it 'magnifique!' and ensured its continued cultivation, leading to its enduring popularity in Lorraine, France, where it's now a protected regional specialty. From ancient gardens to modern orchards, the plum's journey is a testament to its enduring appeal and adaptability, making it a beloved fruit across continents and centuries.
Quick Facts
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Climate
- temperate, continental
- Origin
- Europe and Western Asia
- Harvest
- 3-5 years to first fruit
- Water
- moderate
- Sun
- full-sun
- Soil
- Well-drained clay or loam, pH 5.5-6.5
- Spacing
- 4-6m between trees
- Temperature
- 15-25C (59-77F)
Track Plum on your farm
Get Started Free